Beauty (Vienna) and the beast (bureaucracy)

June 12, 2025

When we checked into our - fairly swish - hotel in Vienna today, it was like gaining entry to fort knox. The concierge gave me a particularly hard stare when he compared me with a somewhat less grizzly version of myself on my passport photo.

When we checked into our rural retreat yesterday, they saw us cycle up to the gate and more or less, gave us the key. Last night's accommodation was definitely the most laid back so far. We could have been anybody. (And probably are)

The night before that was hosted by a lovely lady as mentioned before but her husband fulfilled the role of grumpy old man (as stated in English above the bar)

He was little and wiry with jeans held up by braces over his checked shirt and a set irritated and irascible countenance, and looked very much like a character carved out of wood of the type so popular in this country.

We have loved the enormous variability with all our bookings but now feel positively pampered as we sit in our air-conditioned room. This is city chic. No amusing little ornaments here. It's all clean lines and minimalism. Less is suddenly more. The only thing that really excites, however, is having a kettle, cups, tea bags and fresh milk. It's the first decent tea we've had since leaving home and we can't stop making it. I can't wait until I say "Would you like a cup of tea, darling?" first thing in the morning and actually mean it, rather than it being some sort of sick joke because I know it's impossible.

It was just a 25 mile ride here and we did it in one, choosing to stop when in Vienna. The final approach into Vienna was down a long thin island in the middle of the Danube. As we made progress down it, the relatively few high rises of this city marked the spot. We stopped and I put 'Vienna ' by Ultravox on at full volume as we went over the bridge and then plunged through a myriad of tunnels, underpasses and subways as the ever faithful cycle route negotiated the intricacies of the Vienese road approaches to this wonderful city. Ultravox's Vienna sounded splendid as we picked our way through the swarm of cyclists, all with the same goal: a decent cup of coffee in Vienna. At least, I assume that was everyone's goal. Can you think of another one?

And so we said goodbye to the Danube. Not farewell, as we will hopefully see it again as we pass over it back in Passau to reclaim our car, if it's still there.

Vienna. What an extraordinary city. It's possibly up there as the most beautiful city we have ever seen. We are spending the whole of tomorrow in it, so we will know for sure by then.

All I'll say for now, is that the staggeringly beautiful buildings just went on and on. Austria has obviously had plenty of cash to splash in times past.

We made our way to our hotel just so that we knew we could, then we made our way to 'Westbanhof' train station to see if we could. It involved a few miles of quite tricky cycling. The main reason for our visit to the station was to ascertain for sure that we would be able to put our tandem on the train in two days time.

We went into the ticket office.

"No. No tandems are allowed on our trains". That was it. Then they suggested we try the train company across the foyer. "No. No tandems are allowed on our trains". They suggested a third company. The weird thing is that all these companies are part of OBB. The Austrian Train company. It felt a bit like British Rail saying try the British Rail company over there instead. Whatever the explanation, they all said an emphatic No!

We were lost. We stood their glumly considering the possibility that we might have to leave the tandem in Vienna, go back to Passsu by train, then drive back to Vienna to pick it up. Somehow this would almost feel like cycling here was pointless. I went back into the first office more out of desperation than anything and told them that when I rang OBB weeks ago, they had said that it would probably be OK. "Well, you'd have to take a regional train. And that would mean four trains."

I replied that I knew we had to take regional trains and I didn't care.

Once I'd convinced the woman behind the counter that we would be more or less prepared to cling to the buffers on the front of the train if need be, she sold us a ticket for two bikes and two people. Cost? €46 the lot!

I know it'll probably involve trains 'that stop at every gap in the hedge' as my Grandpa used to say but what do we care. Anyway, trains are one of the most thrilling things on the planet, according to Kate, so she'll enjoy herself.

I suppose that concludes the riding part of this blog. It gives you a great excuse to leave it here.

For the over loyal and insane, I shall continue to witter until we return.

Oh! Would anyone like a cup of tea? I'm just putting the kettle on....