Meanderthal man. And woman.
"Would you like a cup of tea?" I was able to ask that for the first time, today. We had all the ingredients. Water, a kettle, tea bags and milk. It was a very exciting time and enabled us to function like humans more or less from the beginning of the day.
Leaving our accommodation was not difficult and we were soon at a 'Euro Spar'. Basically what we know as a Spar, but on steroids.
We made our way to the river bank with our spoils. Granola, raspberries, yogurt and milk, all mixed together in the tubs we always carry around in case we need an emergency concoction receptical. (And it's not everyday you need one of those...)
We sat near the jetty for the ferry which constantly carried people and bikes across the river. Cyclists turned up in their droves to take the ferry. Why are they bothering when it's just as nice on this side, we wondered. About a mile after we sett off we discovered the answer. The bike lane, promised down both sides of the river disappeared on our side. We looked across at throngs of cyclists enjoying a peaceful ride down a picturesque path whilst we contended with a busy road, fast lorries and, at times, no bike lane at all. Things did improve but we determined to join our cyclist brothers on the other side whenever a bridge enabled us to. When we were on a quieter section, we passed another tandem. The only other tandem we've seen so far. I thought they were American but like so many Europeans, they probably learnt English from American TV. But they were good at it. Their parting word was Ciao, which we have heard a few times. We didn't expect that.
At last, a bridge appeared and we traversed to the side where it was at. 'It' being coffee shops, of course.
Something which has taken us by surprise is the amount of places that refuse a card and only take cash. Today, the coffee shop owner explained that the tax on cards is too much to accept cards. Now we know.
I can't remember the last time I used real money at home. It's one of many ways in which Austria seems quite old fashioned. The decor is usually reminiscent of the 70s. Dark wood, heavy furnishings, kitsch nik naks and real curtains! (Or Austrian blinds) Curtains are a thing if the past in the UK. I don't really get why. Suddenly everybody is happy to be on show, the moment it's time to put the lights on. I'm with the Austrians on this.
There were so many cyclists on the road today. There were times when you could see one every ten yards. Or great clusters of them moving en masse. Nearly every single bike was electric. The riders of these machines all seemed perfectly content to saunter and amble. In fact there are some people who are walking the Danube! To be honest, we both agreed that the scenery is so vast that it is better seen at a faster pace. We find ourselves passing every cyclist we see which is not what we expected. We overtook one man out on a day ride on his lightweight machine who then slipstreamed us for six miles until we arrived at our final town of Spitz. I don't think we've ever been slipstreamed before. When we arrived, he told us to follow a different route tomorrow because it's smoother. Perhaps he'll be there, waiting for us?
We are entering the Wachou area which is renowned for its stunning scenery. We stopped so many times to take photos and even then, we didn't stop to photo the snake laying across the path. At least three feet long, too.
Lunch consisted of Sushi for Kate. I have had too many baguettes and too many pizzas so this time, I had a baguette with a pizza topping.
It's becoming apparent that pretty well everybody eats schnitzel, pizzas and ice cream and drinks beer. All the time! From early in the morning, men and women are downing those huge tankards of beer. When I asked for a coffee at 11am, the man at the bar looked shocked, disappointed and a bit cross.
And so to this evening's accommodation. When we arrived at Spitz, we turned left. I have already written of the folly of turning left. It's what we did yesterday. After a day of pretty flat riding, we went up. Gradually at first. Then not gradually. I have attached the elevation chart because it looks so funny.
The day has been hot and it's been another day just short of fifty miles as we meander down the Danube. Our bnb is stunning. (See the view from our balcony) We are in red wine grape growing country and they are determined to use every inch of land which isn't completely vertical.
Judging by the road here, they leave that land for the roads...
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