Shaken it off

We awoke to the Cockerel. Or I did. But time was not of the essence today. We have a shamefully short ride ahead of us. We sauntered down to breakfast at 8:30 through the vast house, faithfully following 'Fruhstuck' signs all the way. We were alone for the whole time and set to work like Trojans. Although we turned down the host's offer of eggs. We left at 9:30, saying goodbye to our excellent host, David, and cycled off in a leisurely fashion. Perhaps too leisurely and perhaps it was a good job that it was so quiet because it was a few minutes down the road before I realised we were on the wrong side of the road. But what care do we have for such details when the sun is shining in a blue sky and a tail wind requires us to turn the cranks with ease? It was a perfect morning and the weather has remained perfect for the whole day!

After about four miles, we arrived at a village and suddenly found ourselves cycling between people lining the streets. Had they turned out in their very best clothes to cheer us on? Then we spotted a procession advancing. We wisely chose to pull over and wait. A band marked the front of the procession and just as I was thinking it was a shame they weren't playing, they struck up. And they weren't bad. Behind them were various clergy and possibly a choir, then ordinary citizens, but dressed very smartly indeed.

When we asked uncle Google why this had happened, we learnt that today is Pentecost Monday. We were very happy that our ride coincided so perfectly with this colourful glimpse into rural Austrian life.

Whilst being here for a national holiday is nice, it means the shops are closed again. They were all closed yesterday because it was Sunday. Never mind, we had thought, we'll be able to stock up on dwindling supplies tomorrow.

We cycled down beautiful quiet roads which didn't always stay by the Danube. We didn't mind. It would get a bit 'Danuby' if we never left its side.

So... today's ride was a pitiful thirteen miles. It's just the way it happened for logistical reasons which I won't bore you with. This means that we arrived at our destination of Grein by 10:30!

So we had time to do something.

Now, before you all say "Oh, Stephen. How could you be so heartless?" I want to make the next bit very clear. When we wondered what to do. Kate said, and I quote, "Perhaps we should go for a bike ride?"

So, seeing as she insisted, that's what we did. Now, so far, we have followed the Danube valley. This means flat and even slightly down hill. If you turn left or right, you climb a thousand feet. So climb 1,000 feet, we did. Hard work with a fully laden tandem but we nailed it and were rewarded with breathtaking views. The air was crisp and clear and we passed little farms set into beautifully kept meadows along narrow, fenceless roads. I kept expecting Julie Andrews to pop out and sing to us. Another day, perhaps?

Near the top, we reached a village set in the hills called Bad Kreuzen. If a village perches itself 1,000 feet up, then I reckon it deserves to be called Bad. From here we cycled to Burg Kreuzen, a castle marking the summit and wonderful views points. We sat there eating bread rolls and drinking in the views.

Once back in Grein, we ate ice cream. To be honest, if we hadn't eaten ice cream, we probably would have been marched out of the village. Everybody was at it. It must be a national holiday thing. Swarms of bikers roared in, all wearing the badge of their particular tribe, and ate ice cream. (One gang of bikers included the wearing of Leider Hosen!) Huge numbers of cyclists came in their droves and ate ice cream. People who had obviously been to a church service and were still in their best clothes, ate ice cream.

After sitting by the river for a while watching the world go by (and there was a lot of world) we set off to check in to our accommodation. It was just up the road. Up, meaning 100 yds of 1 in 5.

The accommodation is OK... I asked the host over the phone if he could sell us any milk. (There was a kettle!) He said no, then I heard his wife in the background and suddenly he said yes. I think she must have been making an effort to improve on the dodgy reviews for this place. Why did we book it? It was here or nowhere.

After making some tea, we strolled down the hill to the one food outlet which was open in the whole of Grein. It was a kebab and pizza kiosk. It's the same Europe wide. If you don't eat at the time set by the culture of the nation then you buy a kebab. (Actually, we shared a pizza and it excellent)

We heard live music. Again. We made our way to the river bank and there, where we had had a coffee that morning, was a wind band. When we arrived, it was the junior band and I recognised an arrangement of 'Meet the Flintstones' which I have conducted many a time and we are both very familiar with!

It was nice to see young people making music again. It's not that we miss it, we're just glad that we were involved for many a year.

After a few tunes, the older, senior band replaced them. They obviously practice and rehearse. There were rows of German style trumpets and three Wagner Tubas. (That many in one place is verging on illegal in the UK)

Beers were passed to the trumpet section at regular intervals. Somethings are obviously the same the world over. The conductor, being a little more sophisticated, was on the white wine...

We listened to 'Shake it off' by Taylor Swift and several other Austrian Oom Pah favourites. The band wore britches and high socks and the conductor, who asked for audience thigh-slapping at regular intervals got to wear a special hat. How come I never got to wear a special hat?

The weather is set fair for tomorrow. We can buy supplies. We are heading for the renowned Wachou area.

What about the weather over the last two days? We will take Taylor Swift's advice and Shake it Off.